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The collection of the Linđo Folklore Ensemble

With the aim of promoting and presenting the traditional culture of Croatia, as well as of the former state and its republics, to visitors from abroad, the Linđo Folklore Ensemble was conceived and realised as a unique cultural phenomenon on the international folklore scene. Thanks to Dubrovnik as its base and numerous institutions, organisations and individuals, Linđo managed to attain the status of the country's folklore ambassador. During the rise of tourism, in addition to being the presenter of a rich cultural heritage, Linđo also acted as communicator and marketing instrument, promoting the country's attractions.

FAL D1458, Ženska narodna nošnja iz Mariova Makedonija, 1973.

FAL D1459, Ženska narodna nošnja iz Mariova, Makedonija, 1973.

FAL D1460, Muška narodna nošnja iz Rugove, Kosovo, 1973.

FAL D1461, Muška narodna nošnja iz Rugove, Kosovo, 1973.

FAL D1462, Narodna nošnja iz Crne Trave (Šopi), Srbija, 1973.

FAL D1463, Narodna nošnja iz Šumadije, Srbija, 1973.

FAL D1464, Narodna nošnja iz Šumadije, Srbija, 1973.

FAL D1465, Narodna nošnja iz Prigorja, Hrvatska, 1973.

FAL D1466, Narodna nošnja iz Hrvatskog Zagorja, Hrvatska, 1973.

FAL D1467, Narodna nošnja iz Vrlike, Hrvatska, 1973.

FAL D1468, Narodna nošnja iz Dubrovačkog primorja, Hrvatska, 1973.

FAL D1469, Narodna nošnja iz Dubrovačkog primorja, Hrvatska, 1973.

FAL D1470, Narodna nošnja iz Dubrovačkog primorja, Hrvatska, 1973.

FAL D1471, Narodna nošnja iz Dubrovačkog primorja, Hrvatska, 1973.

FAL D1472, Ženska narodna nošnja iz Konavala, Hrvatska, 1973.

FAL D1473 Narodna nošnja iz Posavine, Hrvatska, 1973.

FAL D1474, Narodna nošnja Bunjevaca (Hrvata) iz Vojvodine, 1973.

FAL D1475, Ženska narodna nošnja iz Bizovca, Hrvatska, 1973.

FAL D1476, Narodna nošnja iz Bizovca Hrvatska, 1973.

FAL D1477, Narodna nošnja Bunjevaca (Hrvata) iz Vojvodine, 1973.

FAL D1478, Ženska narodna nošnja iz Dubrovačkog primorja, Hrvatska, 1983.

FAL D1479, Ženska narodna nošnja iz Vrlike, Hrvatska, 1981.

FAL D1480, Narodna nošnja iz Vrlike, Hrvatska, 2003.

FAL D1481, Ženska narodna nošnja iz Vrlike, Hrvatska, 2000-ih

FAL D1482, Ženska narodna nošnja iz Vrlike, Hrvatska, 2000-ih

FAL D1483, Ženska narodna nošnja iz Dubrovačkog primorja, Hrvatska, 2015.

FAL D1484, Ženska narodna nošnja iz Dubrovačkog primorja, Hrvatska, 2012.

FAL D1485, Ženska narodna nošnja iz Dubrovačkog primorja, Hrvatska, 2012.

FAL D1486, Ženska narodna nošnja iz Dubrovačkog primorja, Hrvatska, 2000-ih

FAL D1487, Ženska narodna nošnja iz Dubrovačkog primorja, Hrvatska, 2012.

FAL D1488, Narodna nošnja iz Dubrovačkog primorja, Hrvatska, 2015.

FAL D1489, Ženska narodna nošnja iz Konavala, Hrvatska, 2000-ih

FAL D1490, Ženska narodna nošnja iz Konavala, Hrvatska, 2015.

FAL D1491, Muška narodna nošnja iz Dubrovačkog primorja, Hrvatska, 2015.

FAL D1492, Narodna nošnja iz Posavine, Hrvatska, 2003.

FAL D1493, Ženska narodna nošnja iz Prigorja, Hrvatska, 2012.

FAL D1494, Ženska narodna nošnja iz Međimurja, Hrvatska, 2012.

FAL D1495, Narodna ženska nošnja iz Baranje, Hrvatska, 2015.

FAL D1496, Ženska narodna nošnja iz Baranje, Hrvatska, 2015.

FAL D1497, Ženska narodna nošnja iz Baranje, Hrvatska, 2015.

FAL D1498, Ženska narodna nošnja iz Baranje, Hrvatska 2015.

FAL D1499, Ženska narodna nošnja iz Baranje, Hrvatska, 2015.

FAL D1500, Narodna nošnja iz Baranje, Hrvatska, 2003.

FAL D1501, Narodna nošnja iz Istre, Hrvatska, 2003.

FAL D1502, Ženska narodna nošnja iz Sunje, Hrvatska, 2012.

FAL D1503, Ženska narodna nošnja Bunjevaca(Hrvata) iz Vojvodine, 2012.

FAL D1504, Ženska narodna nošnja iz Bizovca, Hrvatska, 2012.

FAL D1505, Ženska narodna nošnja iz Slavonije, Hrvatska, 2012.

FAL D1506, Narodna nošnja iz Slavonije, Hrvatska, 2012.

FAL D1507, Muška narodna nošnja iz Baranje, 2015.

FAL D1508, Muška narodna nošnja iz Baranje, 2015.

FAL D1509, Naronda ženska nošnja iz Splita, Hrvatska, 2012.

FAL D1510, Ženska gradska odjeća za salonske plesove iz Dubrovnika, Hrvatska, 2012.

FAL D1511, Narodne nošnje Hrvatske, 2012.

Its former name—People of Yugoslavia's Folk Dance and Song Ensemble "Linđo"—determined its orientation and programme, which included the presentation not only of Croatian heritage, but of the heritage of the entire Yugoslavia. In addition to learning different choreographies, proper stage performance required the acquisition of corresponding folk costumes, which was a considerable financial expense. From its founding in the 1960s, Linđo has systematically worked on collecting and purchasing folk costumes, as well as equipment such as traditional instruments, jewellery and props needed for stage performance. Most of the equipment from the area of the entire south-east Europe, particularly from Croatia, was collected and purchased on behalf of the ensemble by its first artistic director and choreographer Sulejman Muratović, during his field visits. By the 1990s, on his many field visits, where he was always in search of preserved, rare and valuable examples of traditional textile handiwork, Muratović obtained, for the purposes of the ensemble, a little over 4000 parts of various folk costumes from the area the former state. Half of them were folk costumes from Slovenia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Montenegro, Serbia, Kosovo and North Macedonia, and the other half were folk costumes from the area of Croatia.

This collection includes approximately 1000 complete folk costumes from the area of south-east Europe, including Croatia. Apart from original parts of folk costumes, a small part of the collection are the clothing items, i.e. parts of folk costumes, whose making was entrusted to established folk costume manufacturers or skilled tailors. Although these items were produced either by artisans or industrially, they help us reconstruct the history of the development of organised folklore and of the stage use of costumes, i.e. traditional clothes and their elements, as interpreted through new materials and designs. The collection and purchasing of folk costumes began already in 1965, when the Tourist Association, the "Atlas" travel agency, the Tourist Alliance and the Tourism Fund provided the first considerable funds for the purchase of the costumes. These were used to purchase 43 women's and 37 men's folk costumes: the Bunjevci, Sava Basin and Valpovo folk costumes from Croatia, the Vardar Basin and Mariovo folk costumes from Macedonia, the Rugova folk costumes from Kosovo and the Šumadija folk costumes from Serbia. A year later, the Shopi folk costumes from the area of Crna Trava (Serbia) were acquired, and over the following decades, the ensemble's collection significantly increased through new acquisitions.

After an audit in 2018, the collection of folk costumes of the Linđo Folklore Ensemble was divided into two collections – Folk Costumes from Croatia and Folk Costumes from Neighbouring Countries. In addition to the costumes collections, two more collections were established – Props and Footwear and Musical Instruments. The Folk Costumes of Croatia collection contains men's and women's folk costumes from Konavle, the Dubrovnik coastal region, Split, Susak, Vrlika, Istria, Hrvatsko Zagorje, Prigorje (Šestine and Zaprešić), the Sava River Basin, Turopolje, the Kupa River Basin (Draganić), Međimurje, Podravina, Slavonija (Donje Bebrine, Bizovac, Slavonski Brod), Bačka (the Šokci and Bunjevci ethnic groups), Banija (Sunja) and Baranja, as well as Dubrovnik urban attire for the performance of the Dubrovnik contra dances. Items were added to the collection over the past twenty years. As of 2011, the Kolovrat artisan workshop for the production and rental of folk costumes has made men's and women's folk costumes from Susak, men's trousers and overshoes from Vrlika, women's shirts in the Bunjevci style, men's shirts for the folk costumes from Konavle and the Dubrovnik coastal region and women's shirts for the folk costumes from the Dubrovnik coastal region.

The ensemble completed their collection with parts of men's and women's folk costumes from Konavle and the Dubrovnik coastal region, parts of women's folk costumes from Bizovac and Prigorje, men's shirts from Baranja and complete women's folk costumes from Split, all purchased during field visits. The Folk Costumes of Neighbouring Countries collection includes costumes from Gorenjska (Slovenia), Glamoča (Bosnia and Herzegovina), the Bosnian Sava River Basin (Bosnia and Herzegovina), eastern Herzegovina (Bosnia and Herzegovina), Cetinje (Montenegro), Šumadija (Serbia), Crna Trava (the Shopi ethnic group – Serbia), Vranje (Serbia), Prizren (Kosovo), Rugova (Kosovo), Bitola (North Macedonia), Skopska Crna Gora (North Macedonia), Mariovo (North Macedonia), Galičnik (North Macedonia), the Vardar Basin (North Macedonia) and Osogovo (North Macedonia). The collection is closed and no more additions to it will be made. The Props and Footwear collection includes socks, belts, kerchiefs, bibs, jewellery and footwear, while the collection of musical instruments includes old traditional musical instruments no longer in use, such as the chanter, the Macedonian tambur, the timpani, the kaval, the violin, the contrabass, the violoncello and the viol, as well as those of more recent origin, such as the basprim, the bisernica prim, the samica string instrument, the diple woodwind instrument, bagpipes and the double flute. Instruments purchased during the 2000s on field visits for the purposes of the ensemble's musicians include samica tamburs, a set of diple, bagpipes and a lijerica lute, while the funds from the project "Lazareti – Creative District of Dubrovnik 2018" secured a set of bagpipes, diple and laktača bagpipes.

The approved funds from the project "Lazareti – Creative District of Dubrovnik 2018" were used to enrich and significantly increase Linđo's collection of folk costumes. For this purpose, the Kolovrat artisan workshop for the production and rental of folk costumes made 20 boys' and 20 girls' folk costumes from Konavle, 20 boys' and 20 girls' folk costumes from the Dubrovnik coastal regions and 64 children's peasant sandals. The Cahun hatmaking workshop from Zagreb made 10 Slavonian hats and 33 Baranja hats. For the purposes of adornment, the Bjelovar Centre for Traditional Culture made 8 kraluš necklaces. Another 12 kraluš necklaces were bought during a field visit, along with 5 royal scudos from the Sava River Basin. After inspecting the materials available during the field visit, another 15 Korčula men's vests, 8 Baranja men's embroidered trousers, 8 Baranja men's shirts and 21 Međimurje women's kerchiefs were purchased. 

It should be pointed out that many items in the mentioned collections, primarily in Croatian Folk Costumes, are still in use and are integral parts of the dancers' stage performances. For this reason, these collections cannot compete with those in museums, where items are preserved in adequate conditions and isolated from potential mechanical, chemical and atmospheric influences. Therefore, the items in Linđo's collection require permanent care and maintenance, so that the characteristics, shapes and colours of their materials are protected from wear. Nowadays, the costumes are kept in the repository in Lazareti and constantly looked after by the folk costumes collection and workshop manager, ethnologist Marica Matuško, and dressing room attendant and conservator Tajana Kera.